Media
Represent and make — projection, camera, light, the print shop, laser and print prep.
One model · waffle, contour or print prep
- Load a model once — pick a parametric form (saddle, dome, barrel vault, cone, peak, waves) or import your own STL / OBJ / PLY / .3dm. It feeds all three strategies.
- Set the model's units and up-axis orientation so the millimetres mean something before you cut anything.
- Waffle: set the rib counts across X and Y, the material thickness and the kerf, and read the interlocking cut sheet.
- Contour: set the sheet thickness and it traces each level, numbered for stacking, with a registration score on the next layer.
- Print prep: pick your printer and bed, layer height, infill and orientation, and read the bed fit, overhangs and time estimate — estimates, not a slicer.
- Export millimetre-true SVG cut sheets, or the PNG view for the sheet.
Interlocking ribs · laser-ready
- Pick a parametric form — saddle, dome, barrel vault, cone, peak, waves — or import your own STL / OBJ / PLY.
- Set the footprint width, depth and height so the model is at the size you'll actually cut.
- Set the rib counts across X and across Y, the material thickness and the kerf — the slots are cut to thickness minus kerf, which is why a wrong kerf gives you a loose or unassemblable model.
- Read the nested cut sheet: every rib labelled, laid out to your sheet width.
- Export the SVG cut sheet at true millimetres for the laser, or the PNG view.
Stacked-layer topo model · laser-ready
- Load a parametric form or a contour map, or drop in your own STL / OBJ / PLY — terrain works as well as a building.
- Set the footprint and height, then the sheet thickness; the number of layers follows from it.
- Turn on Score next layer for registration so each sheet carries the outline of the one above and the stack can't drift.
- Read the layer count and check the top and bottom slices actually exist before you cut.
- Export the numbered, millimetre-true SVG cut sheet for stacking, or the PNG view.
Surveyor ground → physical site model
- In Surveyor, run Sync → “Cut a site model (Relief)” so your measured ground arrives here — or start on the demo landform. A preset sets the studio's setups (TA section 27″ → nine 9″ chunks, Individual @ 1/8″ or 1/4″); every field stays editable.
- Aim the chunk on the KEY MAP: drag the footprint over the shaded survey (Aerial or USGS topo underneath), zoom in, and nudge it with the arrow keys — 10 ft a press, 1 ft with Shift. The east–west / north–south shifts and rotation move the same chunk, which can never leave the surveyed surface, and the footprint's own latitude and longitude are printed under the map (Copy corners hands you all four).
- Read the model under Display's sun: shadows, mesh edges and draped contours at your interval.
- Pick the fabrication: a 3-D print shell (shell thickness, printer bed, surface detail — the model tiles itself to fit), a waffle (rib spacing, thickness, kerf — laser-cut it or print it assembled), stacked slabs (one contour layer per sheet of stock, the next layer scored on each), or the paper top surface (the skin developed flat into fold-scored strips).
- PRINT IN CHUNKS: pick the printer, then ask for the grid you want under Print chunks — “3 × 3” on a 27″ model gives nine 9.00″ pieces exactly, the same grid for the shell tiles and the waffle blocks. “Fit the bed” picks the fewest pieces that fit. Every piece butts on flat planes and the zip carries an assembly map; oversize pieces and anything taller than the printer’s Z are named before you export, not at the machine.
- LINE UP A SET: under Model z = 0, a shared datum makes every model in the set measure from the SAME elevation, so five sites stand at their true relative heights instead of all starting at the table. Type the same datum into each one — below the lowest site’s ground. “Lift printed in” builds it into the piece (hollow, but it grows the print); “riser made separately” keeps the print short and tells you how thick a spacer to cut, which is the right answer once the sites are far apart.
- Set the stock: sheet size and nesting gap drive every laser export; slots are cut at thickness − kerf for a press fit.
- Export: STL (shell tiles or the assembled waffle, model mm), DXF sheets per mode (layers CUT / SCORE / LABEL / SHEET, model inches — millimetres under the metric toggle), and the Rhino .3dm of the same chunk FULL SIZE with contours.
make a physical portrait of a place you scanned with a phone
- Scan the site on a phone (an iPhone LiDAR app), export a mesh GLB — not Draco-compressed, not USDZ — and import it here. Nothing uploads; over-budget scans are simplified on import with the cost spoken.
- Listen to the scan report — it is the viewfinder: spans, interior holes vs the normal sheet edge, the fitted ground plane, coverage by bearing in the scan's own frame, and the resolution sentence.
- Level the floor: one button rotates the fitted ground plane flat to zero and takes the tilt out (this also fixes a Y-up phone export without you ever hearing the word axis).
- Scale by a measurement: tape one span on site, pick which box span you taped, type the feet. The scan's own scale claim is never trusted silently — the disagreement is spoken.
- Crop: type a window in feet and crop to it, or Keep the largest piece to drop floating scan debris. Every crop says what percentage of the surface it removed.
- Place the scan with typed east–west / south–north shifts and a rotation — stored numbers, applied at rasterize time, the same idiom as Relief.
- Pick the model scale and the printer. The readout states the coverage sentence, the chunk grid, and the honest limit: a heightfield keeps the top surface, and the overhang regions that flattened are named with their area and lost undercut.
- Export: STL print chunks (model mm, zipped with the scan's caveats and an assembly map — A1 is the north-west corner), and the same ground FULL SIZE as a Rhino .3dm in feet with contours. Every download is announced.
print a jig that holds a wire model true, and read its scale by touch
- Pick the BOARD first. Two tactile boards came out of this collaboration and the tool makes both. Plate is John’s v1: round holes, half-round wire channels in the top face, and a ruler of raised ticks, inch lines and Braille domes, on a square grid, a polar grid or both. Lattice tile is the v2 board that was printed and approved (2026-10-08): the same 1/8 in pitch, but square holes, the wire channels moved to the BACK, the ruler ENGRAVED into a continuous top face so nothing can break off, and interlocking finger edges pinned with filament so two tiles hinge flat or at 90°. The tile has one control — its size in cells — because every other dimension came out of John’s Grasshopper file; every control below describes the plate.
- Start from a preset — Square 1/4 in is the plain jig, Round barn is Fraser's 60 ft dairy barn as a polar zone on a square site — or set the plate: rectangle or disc, width and depth, thickness (1/4 in stands a wire up straight).
- Turn on the square grid and pick its pitch (1/8 or 1/4 in), the polar grid and pick its ring pitch and spoke count, or both: with both on, the polar zone is cleared of square holes and its edge is a raised ring. Turn Fill the field off to set the polar DIAMETER, and Centre of the field off to put the centre anywhere — on the corner of the site, if that is where the barn is: the rings run off the plate's edge, the holes outside are left off and counted, and the square grid takes the rest. The centre snaps to the ruler's lattice so its coordinates read as clean fractions.
- Print the FIT COUPON first (Export → STL — fit coupon): five holes over your wire, a step apart, numbered in Braille. Push the wire into each; the snug one is the plate's hole diameter — set it in Holes. A printed hole comes out 0.2–0.3 mm under its modelled size, which is why the coupon exists.
- Decide what crosses the field: raised inch lines (cut by the holes they pass), or GROOVES — a half-round channel between the holes along every grid line, a pipe of the hole's width cut half a wire deep, so a wire laid flat sits in a round bed and stays on its line. Grooves replace the raised lines on the same lines; the rulers stay.
- Check the tactile scale: a tick at every hole along the bottom and left edges, a longer tick and a UEB numeral at every inch (number sign optional), a raised triangle in the origin corner. Give the plate a Braille title for its top edge.
- Read the read-back beside the plan — it says every number that prints, the thinnest wall, how many pieces the bed needs, the material — and every WARNING. Say "read the plate" in voice mode to hear it.
- Pick the printer. A plate wider than the bed square (less the clearance) is cut into pieces between the holes, named r1c1 from the top-left; a polar zone that cannot be cut between holes is cut through its centre along a spoke, and the read-back says how many holes are halved.
- On the lattice tile, pick its LAYOUT: Square is the approved board; Circular lays the same 1/8 in pitch, square holes and back wire channels out in rings around a centre hole — a disc 2 to 8 in across, channels along every ring and the eight compass directions, no ruler and no finger edges (the circular layout is the tool's own, not part of the approved board). The Preset list follows the board: the lattice's presets are v1's wherever the lattice can make them honestly (the 1/8 in square jig, the 7 in polar disc) plus the approved 66-cell tile; the 1/4 in and round-barn plates have none. Say "circular lattice" or "square lattice".
- On the lattice tile, Export gives the STL — one watertight solid, the tile and its fingers less the holes, the pin channels, the back grooves and the engraved mat — and the Rhino pair, where surfaces ships the UNCUT tile with each family of cutters on its own layer to BooleanDifference yourself. There is no pieces row and no fit coupon: the tile fits a P1S in one piece, and to get a smaller one you change the CELLS, which keeps the lattice rule, rather than slicing the geometry. The mat is the top 1.016 mm of the plate, so the two-filament split is set at the printer — an STL carries no colour.
- Export: STL — the plate (or the pieces, zipped with the read-back), built and checked by the Manifold kernel: one shell, no void, genus equal to the holes. Rhino .3dm — surfaces arrives CUT: the plate is one Extrusion with every hole a round inner profile, the raised work Breps on their own layers; with grooves or blind holes on (a boolean the browser cannot run) the plate is the kernel-cut mesh, the uncut NURBS plate and its pipe cutters sit on layers that open OFF, and the RhinoPython cut script finishes them into one solid in Rhino. Mesh is the finished print. Settings JSON to share; the read-back as a .brf for an embosser. Save keeps the set-up in your Work.
print people for a model — posed like you, at your scale, for your printer
- Pick where the pose comes from: a preset (standing, walking, sitting, waving, pointing, arms folded, on the phone, in a wheelchair), your photo, your phone scan — or a crowd.
- For a photo: one person, the whole body in the frame, head visible, facing the camera, closer than about 14 ft. The pose model runs in this browser — the photo never uploads — and draws the pose it found over your photo; a limb it could not see is dashed and borrowed from the standing pose. Depth from the photo keeps 35 % of its front-to-back guess by default: one photo sees across and up well and only guesses depth.
- For a scan: open the GLB, OBJ, PLY, STL or 3DM your scanning app exported (compression off). The floor under the feet is found and trimmed; set Up is / Upside down if it arrives lying down, and Trim above the floor for a lumpy floor.
- Pose it by hand under Pose by hand: pick a part (or click a limb on the figure) and turn its dials — lean, side and twist for the torso; look down and tilt for the head; swing, raise, turn and the elbow for each arm; lift, step out and the knee for each leg. Every dial at 0 is the pose as it came; Reset puts a part back. Left and right are the figure's own.
- Or DRAG the joints: turn on Drag joints (under Pose by hand, or the button in the view) and orange handles appear on the hands, elbows, feet, knees, head and chest. Drag one and its limb follows — a hand bends the elbow to reach and swings the shoulder to aim, the elbow kept low where the dials allow — and the part's dials move with it, so the read-back, Reset and the settings file all keep up. The figure holds still while you drag and settles onto the floor when you let go. Drag anywhere else to turn the view.
- Pick a Body — a man's, a woman's, or the average of the two: every width, depth and girth is the survey's mean for it (ANSUR II), scaled to the height you type. Pick an Age for a child — the height jumps to the median for that age (CDC 2000) and the proportions become a child's: a bigger head for the height, shorter legs (under twelve, the average body). Type the child's own height after if you know it. Then set the build.
- Pick the model scale and your printer. Any limb thinner than the printer can hold at that scale is thickened to it — the read-back names which, and by how much. Base disc on to stand it. A sitting figure Sits on a seat block, a wheelchair fitted to it (24 in wheels at an adult's size, checked against the ADA's 30 × 48 in clear floor space), or nothing.
- For a crowd: set how many people (2–24), who (adults, adults and children, children), and which poses go in the mix. Heights come from the CDC growth charts, so most adults land between 5′-4″ and 5′-11″; Shuffle draws new people, and the crowd number brings the same crowd back.
- Slide the mesh reducer for a low-poly figure: fewer, bigger facets. It never cuts inside the printable body, so the thinnest limb survives any setting.
- Read the read-back (or say "read the figure"): the height at scale, what was thickened, the triangles, the grams of PLA, and whether it needs supports.
- Export: Watertight STL at the figure's scale for Bambu Studio — a crowd is one plate of closed shells, one per person — or a Rhino .3dm full size in feet: surfaces (each part of the body a closed NURBS solid — the torso, each limb, the head — and a wheelchair's boxes and cylinders, you can edit and BooleanUnion) or the print mesh. Settings JSON keeps the set-up; a photo's pose saves as 22 body points, never the photo.
trade light for depth — the exposure triangle on a real set
- Open a set — Gaffer's saved scene, or one of the built-in sets — and you're standing behind the camera on a lit stage.
- Open the aperture and watch two things happen at once: the meter climbs and the depth of field collapses.
- Pay the light back with shutter speed or ISO and bring the meter back to zero — that's the exposure triangle, run as a live loop rather than a diagram.
- Try the on-camera, bounce and fill-flash sets, or switch Flash on for any kit: tag lights ⚡ flash vs continuous, and watch the shutter stop touching the flash-lit side while it keeps pricing the ambient one — push past the sync speed to see the frame band, then flip on high-speed sync to clear it.
- Set the focal length and the camera position, and use Level & centre when the verticals go.
- Export a captioned frame PNG, or save the setup JSON.
choose whose eyes — the height, the lens, the distance
- Work through the four guided lessons in order, or free-orbit and drive the rig yourself.
- 1 — What a lens does: change focal length and sensor size (full frame, APS-C, Micro 4/3) and watch the field of view open and close.
- 2 — Perspective is distance, not lens: lock subject size and dolly; the figure stays the same size while the background transforms. This is the one most people have backwards.
- 3 — Depth of field: open the aperture and set the focus distance — focus the figure or the façade and watch the other go soft.
- 4 — Keeping buildings straight: compare tilting the camera up against shifting the lens, and watch the verticals converge or hold.
- Read the rig in plan and elevation beside the frame, then Save frame (PNG) with a caption burned in.
light it and feel the mood — no scores here
- Pick a subject and a paper or ground, then place lights, bounce cards, flags and scrims by dragging them in plan and section — the two views drive the same 3D set.
- Set each light's intensity, size, colour and gel, and Aim at focus or Make key.
- Read the live path-traced photograph as you drag — soft shadows, bounce and falloff are all being solved, so a bigger source really does soften the edge.
- Load a preset setup (three-point, Rembrandt and the other classics) and solo lights one at a time to see what each one is actually doing.
- Export the render PNG, or save the scene JSON — Lens opens the same set to photograph it through a real camera.
one model, fourteen projections — the whole taxonomy, with the maths shown
- Import a model — GLB, glTF, STL, OBJ, PLY or Rhino .3dm — or press Demo.
- Pick a FAMILY first (Multiview · Axonometric · Oblique · Perspective), then the type inside it. The breadcrumb under the chips is your place in the taxonomy; the paragraph below it says what that projection is and why anyone draws one.
- Hover or tab onto any chip to read the method — the actual camera direction, shear or mapping the tool is using, not just a name.
- Multiview: Plan and Elevation are single primary views; Third-angle and First-angle are whole sheets — the same three drawings, mirrored across the front view. Compare the two and the convention IS the difference.
- Axonometric: Isometric is 1 : 1 : 1 at 30°, Dimetric 1 : 1 : ½ at 7°11′ and 41°25′, Trimetric all three different. Free (orbit) prints the live foreshortening — drag until all three read the same and you have found isometric by hand.
- Oblique: set the true-shape face, the receding angle and the depth ratio — Cavalier keeps full depth, Cabinet halves it, Military puts the oblique on a plan turned 45° with the heights straight up the page.
- Perspective: 1-, 2- and 3-point are camera positions, not different projections, so orbit and watch the read-out count the vanishing points change. Curvilinear is a real fisheye (cube map, equidistant mapping) — every straight edge bends.
- Pick a Display mode to draw the model in one of the Inker's looks — Moebius to poché, or YOURS, whatever you last built at /inker.
- Export the framed view as a PNG (a sheet keeps its pane rules and titles), or the Rhino Python script that sets the SAME projection up in your own Rhino document.
Board & page layout · multi-artboard → PDF
- In the Paper panel, set the sheet size, orientation, margins and export resolution.
- Add blocks — title, text, image, rectangle — then drag, resize and snap them to the grid. Double-click a text block to type in place.
- Format the selected block in the Inspector: font, size, alignment, fill, and how an image fits its frame (contain, cover or stretch).
- Give every image its alt text as you place it — the field is right there in the block, and the export carries it.
- Add more boards in the left rail to build a set, then export one board as PNG, all boards as a single multi-page PDF, or the layout JSON.
- Make a tactile plate turns the board into a swell-paper-ready plate.
Transformation diagram · the numbered strip
- Start from a footprint — rectangle, L, U, bar, courtyard, corner — or draw your own plan outline, in feet.
- Add moves in order: extrude, carve, notch, shift, lift, terrace, taper, twist, split, stack. Each move becomes a frame in the strip.
- Reorder, duplicate or delete moves; Ghost all shows what came before under each frame.
- Set ONE projection for the whole strip — an axon at an angle you choose, or plan, or elevation — and the scale is shared too, so the frames are genuinely comparable.
- Write a caption per frame saying WHY the move happened, not what it was. A frame missing its caption is flagged, and it doesn't block the export.
- Run the shuffle test — if the moves read just as well in a random order, the sequence isn't doing the work you think. Record your own verdict.
- Export the strip as SVG or PNG, plus sequence.json.
make the line perspective the pin-up actually needs
- Import a model — .3dm, OBJ, GLB, glTF, STL or PLY.
- Set the camera: eye height, focal length and where it looks; pick the frame aspect (4:3, 3:2, 16:9, 1:1 or A-series).
- Add cut planes — X, Y or a horizontal Z plane for a plan cut — to draw a section rather than an elevation.
- Grade the lineweight by depth so the drawing reads front to back, and check which lines get drawn: the page says exactly how visibility is decided and what it does not do.
- Export the drawing as a layered SVG at 1 unit = 1 mm, so it opens true-size in Illustrator or Rhino, plus the camera JSON.
lay out a 36″ sheet of several constructed perspectives — folded, walked, stitched or collaged
- Open your model (.3dm, OBJ, GLB, glTF, STL, PLY) — or keep the demo round barn, or pick “No model” for a construction-only underlay to draw over by hand.
- SHEET tab — the page: size and margin; start from a layout (one view, a folded triptych, nine stations at one scale, interiors pasted over an exterior, moving stations, a fold at eye level, a 360° panorama — with a plan panel if you want one), or ARRANGE the frames you have into a grid, columns, rows, a hero with a band or side column, or a cascade. “Keep each view's angle of view” re-frames the drawings instead of cropping them. Add views and plan panels, reorder them front to back.
- STATIONS tab — the eyes: walk them along a line, round an orbit, fan them from one point (“turn by each view's own angle” makes butted frames meet like a folded picture plane) or set them on a grid, and aim them along the path, at a target, outward or at one bearing. The hollow marks on the plan show where they will go before you press Place; “Pick … on the plan” sets a point with one click. Copy any setting from the selected view to all of them.
- VIEW tab — one view: its station, eye height, bearing and tilt; Aim at a point (optionally putting the picture plane through it, so the point draws at scale); the picture surface — flat, cylindrical or spherical — its distance and scale; the frame's place, size and shape; align it to the margin, split it into two windows onto one drawing, fold a view on to its right, align every horizon.
- By hand on the sheet: drag a frame (it snaps to a grid and to the other frames' edges), Alt/Option-drag to slide the frame over a drawing that stays put, drag the corner to resize, drag the red dot to move the centre of vision. Ctrl/Cmd+Z undoes; zoom in to check a junction.
- PEN tab — the sheet's pen (near and far lineweights, profile lines, hidden lines, crease angle, the cut and poché, a ground grid) and the construction's layers, line weight and label size. Each view can override its own weight, hidden lines, construction and caption.
- Read the construction off the sheet and the readout, then export the sheet SVG at true size (re-traced at full quality, a layer group per view), the stations as Rhino named views, or one view's camera JSON.
print or import a rigorous perspective grid to draw over by hand, and learn what each point on it is
- Pick the system across the top of the rail — 1-pt to 5-pt. Each switch sets a sensible camera for that system; the sheet, the eye and the grid unit are yours and stay.
- SHEET — the paper (Letter, Tabloid, ARCH C/D/E, the 36″ square, an iPad screen, or custom), its orientation and margin. The grid is clipped to the margin.
- CAMERA — eye height (the horizon IS eye level), the viewing distance (or the back wall's distance in one-point; the cylinder's or sphere's radius in four- and five-point), the architect's scale that is true on the picture plane, the grid's turn α (90° faces a wall squarely), the pitch in three-point, and where the horizon and the centre of vision sit on the sheet.
- ROOM / CORNER — the grid unit, the room's width and height (or the corner's wall height), and how far the ground grid runs.
- Or drag the points on the sheet: HL up and down; GL to set the scale; VPL and VPR (the station point stays on the semicircle); VPV in three-point (the CV follows as the orthocentre); the DPs or SP to set the viewing distance; a four-point VP to turn the grid; VPT/VPB to resize the hemisphere. Every drag has a slider and a typed number in the rail.
- Hover any point on the sheet's readout to see HOW it was found; read the lesson for what the system is, what to check on your own drawing, and where it breaks. Turn on the eye-height posts to see every top meet the horizon.
- LAYERS — ground, walls, ceiling, posts, diagonals, construction, cone, labels — and the pen weight. Then Export: the PDF at true size to print and draw over, the SVG with a layer per kind of line, or the transparent PNG for Morpholio Trace / Procreate (black, light grey or non-photo blue, 150 or 300 dpi).
build the drawing as a collage, with the horizon doing the scaling
- Set a board format — A3 portrait or landscape, square, 16:9 — and a ground colour or texture.
- Drop in images, rectangles, ellipses and text; Import image or paste straight onto the board.
- Cut an image out with the Polygon scissors, then stack, reorder and blend layers in the Inspector; Monochrome tint flattens a photo into the drawing's palette.
- Set the horizon and eye height, and entourage dropped from the Entourage Library scales itself to them — oversize a figure and the board tells you.
- Add filters and grain, or send a layer through Halftone & Riso to get the printed register.
- Export PNG at 1× or 2×, or save the project JSON.
put the model in the real site photo, honestly
- Load a site photograph.
- Build two bundles of parallel edges — lines along the building that are parallel in reality — and the two vanishing points solve the camera's focal length and orientation.
- Mark one known height (a standing person, a door leaf, a garage door, a storey) to give the solve its scale. Two vanishing points alone give you no size — the page is explicit about that.
- Read the solved camera: focal length in pixels, eye height, and the assumption you are making by accepting it.
- Rectify — flatten a façade by placing its four corners and giving one known length; it refuses when the corners can't be a rectangle, and that refusal is the honest answer.
- Export the camera JSON or the rectified elevation PNG.
Paper-collage stop motion · after Terry Gilliam
- Load the demo (a talking head) or import your own images — scans of real paper cutouts with transparent backgrounds work best.
- Select a piece and drag the ◎ hinge to where the joint really is — a jaw hinges at the back, an arm at the shoulder — then swing it with the round handle.
- ✂ Cut a piece out of another one (torn edge optional) to make a mouth, a jaw or a limb; the cut becomes its own hinged piece.
- Pose, press ◉ Capture frame (C), nudge, capture again — onion-skin ghosts show the frames before. About 12 captures make a second.
- Play it back (Space) at a low frame rate — Gilliam shot at about 12 — and export a looping GIF, a numbered frame sheet, or a stage still.
choose colours on purpose — and find out why the ones you had were fighting
- Pick a seed colour and a scheme, then flip the basis between OKLCh and HSL and watch the lightness column: an HSL triad scatters, an OKLCh triad holds.
- Orbit the 3D colour solid and drag the morph slider between the four spaces — HSL is a tidy cylinder, and the real gamut is not.
- Open Complements for all four answers to "what is the opposite of this?", each labelled with the system it belongs to.
- Use the Gamut mask or the Centroid Picker to build a palette from a region rather than one swatch at a time.
- Run the Audit: contrast under both metrics, colour-vision-deficiency simulation, and the photocopy test — the one your drawings will actually face.
- Check it under mixed light: slide the kelvin and watch the scheme move, because the illuminant is part of the palette.
- Export hex, CSS custom properties (sRGB plus an oklch() line), JSON or a swatch sheet PNG. Copy share link puts the palette in the URL; every swatch also names its nearest ISCC-NBS centroid with the ΔE beside it.
screen an image into printable ink plates
- Load an image (drop, paste, or choose).
- Pick a mode: halftone screening, a two-ink Riso separation, duotone, line screen, engraving, crosshatch or stipple.
- Set the dot shape, the ruling, the screen angle and the inks — the Riso palettes are the real ones (Fluoro Pop, Comic Ink, Cyanotype, Process Riso), on a paper colour you choose.
- Read the comparison sheet to see the same image under several screens at once before you commit.
- Export the composite PNG, the per-ink plate masters (Voice A / Voice B) for a real two-pass print, or vector SVG dots.
trace a raster into editable line work
- Load a raster — a scan, a photo of a drawing, or a screenshot.
- Pick the method: Outline traces line work as strokes, Fill traces solid shapes as filled paths.
- Tune threshold, cleanup, simplify and smooth, and zoom in to check the trace against the original rather than trusting the thumbnail.
- Export SVG for Illustrator, or DXF at a width you set in millimetres for CAD, a laser or a plotter. Copy SVG to clipboard when you just want to paste it.
grow the image from rules — a field, not a photo
- Set up the grid — square, brick or hex — with your rows, columns and cell size.
- Pick the cell shape (circle, square, triangle, diamond, cross, louver) and drag the attractor point or path across the field.
- Tune the response: min and max size, falloff, Rotate toward attractor, and Invert so near means small.
- Switch to Outline only for a laser or a pen plotter, or keep the fill for a rendered pattern.
- Export SVG, PNG, or DXF in millimetres straight into Rhino, AutoCAD or a laser cutter.
Architectural hatch fills
- Pick a material pattern — concrete, brick, CMU, stone, earth, sand, gravel, wood grain and end-grain, steel, batt and rigid insulation, or solid poché.
- Set the drawing scale (1:20 through 1:200) and the tool sizes the pattern to it — the real repeat is printed beside it so you can check.
- Set line weight, density/spacing and rotation, and preview it on a wall corner rather than an abstract square.
- Download SVG at true millimetres, PNG, or Copy the SVG pattern to paste as a reusable fill.
Graphic scale bar + north arrow
- Pick the unit system and the drawing scale — a metric ratio or an imperial architect's scale.
- Set the drawn length, the number of cells, and whether the lead cell is sub-divided; pick a style (solid, alternating, checker, open boxes, stepped, ruler, wavy).
- Add a north arrow — needle, star or simple — set its rotation, and place it above or below.
- Set the type: font, size, which values get labelled, and whether the unit rides on the last number.
- Export an SVG sized in real millimetres (prints true at 100%) or a PNG, or copy the PNG straight to the clipboard.
Golden section, root rectangles…
- Import a façade or plan image to analyse, or work on the draggable analysis frame alone.
- Set the frame's aspect — free, square, 3:2, golden φ, or √2 — and fit it to what you're testing.
- Overlay the systems: golden section and spiral, root rectangles (√2 · √3 · √5), rule of thirds, Fibonacci grid, Modulor bands, tatami/ken grid, symmetry axes and your own regulating lines.
- Read the live ratios as you drag, and set line colour, style and weight so the overlay reads over your image.
- Download PNG or SVG.
Scalable silhouettes for drawings
- Pick a category — people (standing, walking, sitting, with a bag, small groups, children), trees (deciduous, conifer, columnar, palm, shrub, canopy), cars in plan and side, or furniture.
- Drop items onto the canvas; they arrive at true scale against the reference figure and the ground line.
- Set the canvas scale so the drawing agrees with yours, then drag, resize and Flip each item.
- Download a transparent SVG or PNG of the whole set, or just the selected item, to layer over a drawing.
Measure any drawing · calibrate then measure
- Drop, paste or load an image — a screenshot of a plan is the most common source.
- Set the scale: click the two ends of a dimension you know and type its real length, or pick a named scale and the image's print DPI.
- Pick a tool — Segment, Path, Area, Rect, Angle or Count — and measure on the drawing; every measurement gets a label you can edit.
- Read the running totals: total length and total area across the measurements you've taken.
- Export the measurements CSV, the annotated PNG, or the Scaler document JSON to come back and add more.
choose where to stand, then send the view to Rhino
- Import your model (.3dm, .obj, .stl, .ply, .glb) and set the up axis — Z up for Rhino, Y up for OBJ and glTF.
- Add a camera on the plan and aim it; the plan is a horizontal slice, with the footprint of every edge from above behind it.
- Set eye height and lens, and watch the 60° cone of vision — anything outside it will distort, and the tool tells you when you've stepped past it.
- Check the verticals: it says whether the camera is level, tilted, or pointing straight up or down, and whether the sun is behind you, raking, or down.
- Name the keepers, then export the shot list — Rhino .3dm as named views, RhinoPython for the whole list or one shot, or the shot list JSON.
- Sign in. A massing floats with a cut plane through it — slide the plane and the true section is drawn on it as you go.
- Freehand your own poché on the canvas beside it, drawing what you think the cut looks like.
- Score the sketch and read the diagnosis: region overlap (IoU), true poché covered, ink on true poché, with the misses named.
- Read the fairness rules before you argue with the score — alignment is by position and uniform scale only; rotation and orientation are never corrected for you.
- Next challenge → for another cut, or Redraw this cut to try the same one again. Optional: have Claude narrate the diagnosis.
make the viewport itself the drawing — and keep the mode in Rhino
- Pick a preset from the shelf — Moebius, graphite, noir, blueprint, clay, terracotta, riso, poché — and orbit the still life to see how it draws.
- Work the Lines group: one ink for everything, the silhouette a step heavier than interior edges; slide the crease angle to watch the dihedral test decide which edges exist.
- Work Shading: one signature fill or layer colors, Flatten for the ambient term (100% is ligne claire, 0% full modeling), Shine 0 for matte.
- Work Shadows: intensity, a colored shadow, blur — then drop the map size and the bias to meet the two classic shadow-map artifacts on purpose.
- Read the right-hand panel: the lesson notes track your settings, and the live .ini shows the exact line every control writes.
- Name the mode and Download .ini, then in Rhino: Options → View → Display Modes → Import…, and pick it from the viewport-title dropdown.
Model pre-flight · units, edges, inventory, bed fit
- Drop a .3dm (Rhino), OBJ, STL, PLY or GLB / glTF — it's parsed in your browser and nothing is uploaded.
- Read the report by severity: STOP is something that will break a downstream tool, WARN is something that probably will, NOTE is worth knowing.
- It checks units and scale, naked and non-manifold edges, whether solids are closed, the object inventory and 3D-printer bed fit — and every finding names the tools it affects.
- Click a finding, or an object row, to highlight it in the viewport and see the actual geometry it's talking about.
- Export the report as Markdown or JSON, or Print / PDF it. Run this before Fabricator, Parts or Proving Ground and you'll save yourself the confusing failure later.